written by Kevin Winters, Littleton Co-op Manager on Duty
Food for Thought is a new online space by the Littleton Food Co-op for Co-op staff, members, and partners to publish musings & reflections on what they care about.
Did you know the world’s most influential organic apple orchard is right here in the North Country? Lost Nation Orchard is about 25 miles north of the Co-op in the Lost Nation section of the town of Northumberland, NH. Home to Nancy, Gracie, and the late Michael Phillips, this small, local, family run holistic orchard produces the most delicious apples you will ever taste. To quote Dave Chapman, co-director of the Real Organic Project, and founder of the Vermont Organic Farmers organization, “Michael Phillips was the patron saint of organic orcharding.” Michael started Lost Nation Orchard almost 40 years ago at a time when everyone said it was impossible to grow apples organically. In fact, many people still say it is impossible to grow organic apples if you’re in New England. Michael has clearly proven all the naysayers wrong. Over the decades he became the most influential organic apple grower in the world. He grew over 120 different varieties of apples, both ancient heirlooms, and brand new experimental varieties. He wrote three seminal books on organic apple growing, which are widely considered to be classics, and a must read for any organic orchardist. He traveled far and wide lecturing, consulting, and giving workshops on how to grow organic apples. Also, Michael was the founder of the Holistic Orchard Network which has over 2,500 members from at least 7 countries. Countless prospective and experienced apple growers made the pilgrimage to his orchard to attend his workshops and learn from the master. Just bite into one of his apples, and experience an intense wave of complex, juicy flavors, which will radically alter your perception of what an apple can be.
Michael was also a wonderful human being. He was larger than life, and yet kind and gentle, with a down to earth, easy going personality, which made you feel right at home. Despite almost always being the most knowledgeable person in the room Michael was the best listener I’ve ever met. He would sit quietly listening, observing, and learning from those who had come to learn from him. An inquisitive mind of the highest order. I was blessed to know Michael for a dozen years or so, and have incredibly fond memories of visiting the orchard as many times as I could during apple season. For a food lover like myself there was nothing better than spending time with Michael in his apple barn as he excitedly danced about endless baskets filled with a kaleidoscopic variety of apples saying, “You absolutely must try this one, it’s an experimental variety developed in Czechoslovakia in the 1990’s , it has explosive flavors of citrus and PINEAPPLE. Yes, Pineapple!! And then there is this one here, and oh don’t miss out on this one, and make sure you try this old timey New England variety that has notes of bourbon, vanilla, and burnt sugar.” And on, and on it would go. What a blessing it was experiencing a true master of his craft spreading the joy created by the fruits of his labor.
And Michael was a family man. He met the love of his life, Nancy, when they both worked for a group foster home for abused and neglected children. The goal of the program was to offer the children natural foods, lots of time in nature, and a stable environment. They walked through this green world together for 37 remarkable years. Their daughter Gracie was the apple of his eye, and whenever he mentioned her, which was often, a visible twinkle could be seen radiating from his eyes. Like so many immensely talented people it seemed The Creator had important work for Michael in the Great Mystery that lies ahead of us all. He was called to that work in late February of 2022. Luckily for all of us, Gracie has decided to move back home and take over management of the orchard, thus continuing her father’s immensely important legacy. Gracie and Nancy are working extremely hard to continue this truly unique North Country family farm, and for the first time ever, Lost Nation Apples are available at the Littleton Food Co-op during apple season!!
And a word about spots. You’ll notice some spots on these apples, which is totally normal as all apples grown organically in New England, or any other temperate climate, will have spots. Most organic apples you see are grown in the dry, continental climate of eastern Washington state where it almost never rains. These spots have no flavor and do not affect the quality of the fruit at all. The only way to eliminate them in New England is to use chemical sprays. As Joni Mitchell famously sang, “Hey farmer farmer, Put away that DDT now, Give me spots on my apples, But leave me the birds and the bees, Please!”
We only become wise when we recognize that we need to emulate nature in our agricultural systems and in how we care for this planet.” – Michael Phillips
The views and opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect the view of Littleton Food Co-op.
